Sunday, September 8, 2013

Eat Your Way Through Florence

The food in Florence is arguably some of the best in the world. I have eaten my way around the city and am rarely disappointed. Having said that, there are some restaurants that stand out, and I would love to share those with you!

La Giostra (Borgo Pinti 12R, near Santa Croce)
An old restaurant with great ambiance owned by the Prince of Hapsburg, La Giostra is frequented by Hollywood stars visiting Florence. You are greeted at the door with a glass of prosecco to enjoy while looking at the pictures on the wall of their famous customers. The owner, an eclectic man who does not look like your typical prince, walks around wearing over 300 bracelets, one from each time he visits a country. He checks in at every table and gives recommendations. They are famous for their pear ravioli, but the artichoke ravioli is equally delicious. We have also ordered the Florentine steak, which is fantastic if you are willing to spend the money. It is really big and can be easily split among 3 people or between 2 hungry men. The wine list is extensive, and the waiters would be more than happy to suggest a good wine to go with your meal selection. Definitely make a reservation here and plan on it being a nice night out.

Acqua al 2 (Via della Vigna Vecchia 40, near Santa Croce)
With locations in Washington DC and San Diego, Florence boasts the original steak and pasta restaurant known for its blueberry steak. I know it sounds different, but this is a perfectly cooked steak with a deliciously unique blueberry sauce. Another favorite is the balsamic steak. If you are in the mood for pasta, the pumpkin pasta is a filling and very satisfying dish. For each course, the restaurant offers samplers, which is a great option if you want to try a little bit of everything. I would definitely recommend ordering the dessert sampler! The house wine on the table is good and will go well with the steaks. I would suggest making a reservation. 

La Bussola (Via Porta Rossa 58, between the Ponte Vecchio and the Duomo)
This is the best pizza I have tried in Florence, and I have had some delicious pizza. They have an extensive menu, including things besides pizza, as well as options for pizza with wheat crust or ingredients only from Tuscany. My favorite pizzas are the four cheese (quatro formaggi) and the pear, honey, and walnut. As is typical in Italy, the pizzas are meant for one person, but if you have some leftover they will put it in a box. Also on the menu are beers brewed in Tuscany that are actually really interesting and good. Of course, you can also choose from a wide variety of wine by the bottle, half bottle, or glass. The waiters here are some of the nicest I have encountered while in Florence. If you want to eat at 8:00 on a Friday or Saturday night, try to make a reservation; otherwise, they will usually have a table.
 
Osteria Santo Spirito (Piazza Santo Spirito 19R)
This cute little restaurant in Piazza Santo Spirito was one of the first places I ate in Florence, and it has become a favorite of our group. It is on the opposite side of the river from the Duomo, near the Pitti Palace. Among all 27 TCU students, I'm pretty sure we have ordered everything on the menu. From the antipasta menu, order a plate of fresh goat cheese wrapped in cured beef for the table. I am not a fan of cured meat, but this is one of the best dishes I have had in Florence. Next, I would suggest ordering either the ribollita, a classic Tuscan vegetable soup, or the bean soup; ask for a half portion so you save room for pasta or meat. The truffle gnocchi is always a hit, but my personal favorite is the walnut ravioli. The risotto with zucchini and parmesan hearts is rich and another one of my top choices. Most of the pastas also come in a half portion, and I would recommend ordering that unless you are really hungry. The best part about this restaurant is the pricing; you could spend 12 Euro a person and get an appetizer, pasta, and wine. Make reservations here if you want to go after 8:00 at night.

Trattoria 4 Leoni (Via de Vellutini 1R, between Pitti Palace and Santo Spirito)
I went to this restaurant once toward the end of my time in Florence, and I wish I had discovered it earlier. It is on the opposite side of the Ponte Vecchio from the Duomo in a quaint little piazza. The menu is not the largest, but the selections all sound delicious. I ordered the pear and asparagus pasta and was so happy with my choice. For dessert, you must order the cheese cake; words cannot describe how good it was. The house wine was inexpensive and one of the best house wines I have tasted. I would recommend making a reservation; it is a popular place.

Salumeria Verdi aka Pino's (Via Verdi Giuseppe 36R, near Santa Croce)
This panini shop is a family affair; Pino makes the sandwiches, his wife makes the pasta, and his father-in-law runs the register. My favorite panini in Florence is the "Springtime" from here. People also love "La Bomba" and "Turkey Best." The ingredients are fresh and the bread is perfectly salty and toasted. Expect a line between 12-2 as it is a favorite of study abroad students and locals.

I Due Fratellini (Via de Crimatori 38, near Piazza della Signoria)
Another good bet for one of the best paninis in Florence is this local treasure. This is literally a hole in the wall; you walk up to a counter, order your panini and glass of wine (for about 5 Euros total), and then stand on the street and enjoy! This is the perfect place for an inexpensive and quick lunch if you are trying to fit all of Florence into one or two days.


Some other tips about dining in Florence
  1. Order wine. Order wine from Chianti. It is part of the culture and an important piece of the Italian experience.
  2. Order a Tuscan meal at least once. Italian food is diverse and the specialties vary depending on where you are in the country. Florentine steak, anything with truffle, and ribollita are three good options.
  3. Waiters at Florentine restaurants (and most restaurants around Europe) are paid above minimum wage and therefore are not concerned with turning tables. If you want your check, you have to ask for it and then expect a little while before you actually get it. 
  4. Dining in Italian culture is an experience. Food is meant to bring people together. Enjoy this part of the culture and spend two to three hours at dinner one night. 
  5. If the check lists a "coperto" or you are charged for bread, this counts as a cover charge and you are not expected to tip. If nothing is listed, some waiters will want a tip, but it is still not necessary.

Happy eating!